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Nitrates can be kept under control by performing regular partial water changes with nitrate-free water. Nitrate can, however, cause the development of unwanted nuisance algae, so it is important to keep the level as low as possible. Nitrate, the final byproduct, will accumulate in established aquariums, but is nontoxic to fish in low concentrations (up to 20 ppm).
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Once the ammonia and nitrite levels have dropped to zero, the tank is considered cycled. Damselfish, hermit crabs, tank-raised clown fish, cured live rock and live sand are often placed into the aquarium first, until the bacteria colonies are fully established and water quality becomes optimal. Test kits are used to monitor water quality during this crucial time. During the first several weeks that a new marine aquarium is established, ammonia and nitrite will be present until sufficient bacteria colonies have developed in the filter system to reduce their concentrations. The oxygen-consuming bacteria utilize oxygen to convert toxic ammonia and nitrite into nitrate, a much less toxic byproduct. Both of these compounds are toxic to most organisms and are removed from the aquarium by beneficial bacteria colonies living in the filter, or within the live rock and live sand (if present). These compounds need to be broken down and removed from the aquarium if invertebrates and fish are to thrive in the tank. The input of fish food and fish waste into the closed-system aquarium produces toxic ammonia and nitrite. We will now briefly discuss some of the basics of a marine aquarium.ġ.) Biological Filtration: Biological filtration refers to the purification of aquarium water by beneficial aerobic bacteria colonies. Purchasing photosynthetic animals such as corals and tridacna clams without first installing adequate lighting to sustain them. Adding uncured live rock to an established aquariumġ8. Not cleaning out the protein skimmer frequentlyġ7. adding harsh fish medications to an aquarium containing invertebratesġ6. adding newly acquired fish to an established tank without quarantining them first.ġ5. purchasing fish that are incompatible or that grow too large for your aquariumġ4. purchasing fish on impulse, rather than planning aheadġ3. purchasing unhealthy or poorly conditioned animalsġ2. positioning the aquarium near a window, heater, or drafty area.ġ1. using outdated, ineffective or inadequate equipmentĩ. Starting with an aquarium that's too smallħ. Relying on unqualified individuals or sources for advice.Ĥ. Failure to read current, reputable marine aquarium books, or otherwise research the hobby to gain a basic knowledge of equipment and methods prior to making the big purchaseģ. From a beginner's basic tank with just a few clownfish to the most advanced high-end custom reef aquarium with dozens of live corals, all successful marine aquariums share many of the same principles.Ī few common mistakes to avoid when starting a marine aquarium:Ģ. The answer is simple: with the right combination of basic knowledge and quality equipment, anyone can have a successful saltwater aquarium. And me to give guided tours.HOW HARD IS IT TO KEEP A SALTWATER TANK? We hear this question daily, from just about everyone who walks through our door and sees how beautiful a properly set up marine tank can be. A PUBLIC aquarium, with a big focus on education, conservation, and breeding. Or, hell, lottery winner dreams? Not a home aquarium. Though I wonder about a very big, lightly stocked macro-dominated tank. I don't WANT a massive aquarium, too hard to do water changes. Either integrate RFAs into the frogfish tank, or a shallow display (20-30gal range) of RFAs. a 30-50gal macroalgae "reef" of tiny fish, attached to a 20gal or so fuge with a frogfish.
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Then a 'fuge with a frogfish and one of those big, rockwork-upturning, fish-safe stone crab type of crabs.Īs to what I'd actually like to do and maintain. And something that will survive the clowns. The other side, call it an aggressive reef? LPS and maybe some softies, with hopefully a bubble tip nem and a pair of one of the larger clowns. One side macroalgae-dominated, stocked with tiny creatures (trimma gobies, bluestripe pipefish, etc), and maybe one larger but very peaceful fish for punctuation. Two big (but not massive) aquariums plumbed together, with a fuge. Unless someone else is maintaining it, and maybe not even then.